Today is our last full day in Portugal. Sadly, the weather gods who have graced us with a sunny, mostly cloudless week of vacation-perfect weather have forsaken us today. Intermittent showers of varying intensities are putting a literal damper on our mad dash westward to reach Portugal’s Second City. Compounding the abysmal weather is the amount of time it will take to reach our dock–there are two locks to traverse along the way–meaning our time in Porto will be very limited.
We (eventually) tie up in Via Nova de Gaia after lunch (close to 2 PM) and the groups begin to assemble for their bus tour of the city. The Golden Group (us) are the last to descend the gangway and set out to view the city’s highlights through raindrop-distorted bus windows. I try to jot down some of the interesting sites we drive by in the hope that I might find images of them online–since taking clear photos proved impossible–but I can’t keep up with our tour guide’s narration. Compounding the depressing weather, our bus becomes ensnared in a monumental traffic jam along the riverfront caused by a local auto show.
Sites we drove by in Porto
NOTE: If there’s a blue sky, it’s been culled from the internet. Our view was duller, grayer and damper!
Palácio da Bolsa
(Stock Exchange Palace)
Eventually, we reach the Palácio da Bolsa (Stock Exchange Palace), one of two planned stops. We tour the enormous building that combines elements of neo-classic, French Renaissance and Art Nouveau styles (plus a few others). Throughout the building, there are intricate inlaid floors that use the exotic woods available from Portugal’s former colony, Brazil, in exquisite patterns of light and dark.
Initially impressed by the spacious Hall of Nations (our first visited room) with its elaborate tile-inlaid floor and soaring glass dome, the highlight of the building remains the dazzling (and a little garish) neo-Moorish Salão Árabe (Arabian Room). Having been exposed to the Alhambra and its use of geometric symbols, arabesques and Arabic calligraphy as decorative elements, it was interesting to learn that not only is there the requisite recurring dedications to Allah in the walls’ decorative motif, but there are Arabic-script dedications to Portugal’s Queen Maria II (الخليفة مريم الثانية) for her donation of the land upon which the Exchange was built.
The Hall of Nations
Meeting Rooms
The Arabian Room
(if anything)
With the Arabian Room behind us, most of our group descended to the ground level on a grand staircase lit from above by an oblong dome flanked by suspended chandeliers.
Estação de São Bento
(São Bento Station)
From the former palace of commerce and industry, we were transported to the São Bento Station, known for its beautiful tile art on the walls of the interior hall. Some of the larger works were muted by a film covering that is protecting them from damage during the construction that is taking place around the station. (Porto is in the process of building a metro system.) But the depicted stories of Portuguese history, transportation and life were still visible and stunning.
Ponte Dom Luís I
(Dom Luis I Bridge)
Lastly, the highlight of the entire Porto tour was enjoyed by just a handful of us hardier souls: crossing “the bridge!” Exiting the bus, Joana led our little group on a walk across the top level of the Dom Luís I Bridge to the Gaia side….where a cable car then carried us down from the heights to dockside. Such a view, I can’t tell you. Despite the off-and-on drizzle and the low-hanging clouds that were partially concealing some of Porto’s hilltop buildings, the view was spectacular and so worth the misty rain-facial experienced while crossing.
Hot off the cable car, Rob and I wrapped up our Porto stay with a visit to the adjacent Sancho Panza restaurant for a beer…and to share what Joana described as one of the best francesinha sandwiches in the city. (The francesinha has layers of beef, ham, and sausage between toasted bread topped with loads of melted cheese and then smothered in a hot tomato and beer sauce. Truly, the tastiest heart attack on a plate!)
It was back to the ship for a final dinner and to pack for tomorrow’s departure. I passed on the meal because even the half portion of francesinha I had was very filling. Later, I joined our table for a final glass of port…which they did not serve tonight!
Oh, well. I did get to watch Peg flirt with her favorite waiter one last time.
Portugal: Lisbão to Oporto 